New York Yorkie Puppies
Buy A Yorkie Puppy Online !
Buy A Yorkie Puppy Online !
New York Yorkie Puppies .com, is an organization of yorkie puppy lovers that was formed with the sole intention of placing the perfect yorkie puppy with families throughout the country. All of our yorkie puppies that are advertised are from responsible and professional yorkie puppy breeders. Our yorkie puppies are of the finest quality and their health is guaranteed. Each yorkie puppy that is advertised on our website is from responsible yorkie puppy breeders who we personally screened. We do this to assure families they will receive a happy and healthy yorkie puppy. We do everything possible to ensure that we only represent professional and responsible yorkie puppy breeders. Our organization does not tolerate yorkie breeders who do not abide by our strict guidelines. We are strongly against Puppy Mills or yorkie breeders who keep substandard conditions.
If you are a yorkie breeder and would like to become a member of New York Yorkie Puppies .com yorkie puppy breeder network, please fill out the form below or call us. By filling out the form below, a member of our staff will contact you immediately to discuss your yorkie puppy breeding standards.
Puppy nails have tiny sharp points that can easily scratch you, your children, or your furniture. It is important to keep your puppy’s nails trim. Untrimmed nails can also lead to broken nails that are painful and bleed. To trim your Yorkie Puppy’s nails, you can simple use an ordinary nail clipper. You may want to hold your puppy in your lap or have someone hold your Yorkie Puppy on a table. Hold your puppy’s paw firmly and push on his pads to extend the nail. Start cutting off only the very tip of the nail and make several small nips with the clippers instead of one larger one. Be careful not to cut too much as you may cut the vein (quick). If you accidentally cut the quick, wipe off the blood and apply Kwik-Stop or styptic powder to stop the bleeding. It is not serious and will heal quickly.
Deworming your Yorkie Puppy is a critical part of his or her puppy care. 98% of all puppies are born with worms that they contracted before they were born from their mother.
There are many different species of worms which can affect your puppy’s growth and development. These worms are intestinal parasites, and contrary to popular belief, you probably won’t see them in the puppy’s stool unless they have a severe infestation.
We recommend having your Yorkie Puppy’s stool checked periodically by your local veterinarian.
There are many different types of parasites that your Yorkie Puppy can contract. These include: roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, coccidian, and giardia. These are the most common parasites that can affect your puppy. Safeguard (Fenbendazole) is highly recommended for treating Intestinal Parasites.
If giardia is present in your Yorkie Puppy’s stool, your veterinarian may prescribe FLAGYL (metronidazole). If Coccidia is detected, your veterinarian may prescribe ALBON (sulfadimethoxine).
CONSULT YOUR LOCAL VETERINARIAN FOR PROPER DEWORMING
Most puppies should be started on a heartworm preventative at least by two months of age. And now in most areas of the United States, it is recommended that heartworm preventative be given all year long, although the risk of getting heartworms is still greatest in the summer months. Heartworm preventative is usually given monthly in the form of a chewable tablet. The most popular brands are Heartgard and Interceptor. It is important the you give this tablet every month. Please note that if your Yorkie Puppy goes 6 months without heartworm prevention, consult your local veterinarian. Blood testing will be required before administering heartworm preventative.
CONSULT YOUR LOCAL VETERINARIAN REGARDING HEARTWORM PREVENTATIVE
It is very important to keep your Yorkie Puppy free of any fleas or ticks.
He or she can become severely ill due to fleas and ticks.
Most flea products these days are effective against ticks as well as fleas. We recommend Frontline flea and tick preventative. It is a medication that is applied once a month to help prevent fleas and ticks. It is a liquid product applied topically to the skin between the shoulder blades.
Your Yorkie Puppy will arrive with a bag of dry kibble. We recommend continuing to feed your Yorkie Puppy the same food and slowly (over the course of 5 days) wean them off and put on a holistic puppy food such as Vet’s Choice or Wellness. During this weaning period, your Yorkie Puppies stool may become soft or even turn to diarrhea. For this we recommend adding cooked white rice (no butter or flavorings) to the dry kibble.
Feeding Schedule
We recommend feeding your Yorkie Puppy 3X daily (morning, afternoon, evening) until 6 months of age. After 6 months of age, you can feed your Yorkie Puppy 2X daily (morning, evening). Adjustments can be made depending on your personal schedule. You should never leave food out all day long so that your Yorkie Puppy will eat whenever he wants. You want your Yorkie Puppy to eat on a set schedule.
Amount of Food
Follow the recommendations of the food manufacturer. On the back of the puppy food bag, you will find detailed feeding quantity based on your Yorkie Puppies age and size.
Water
Water is to be left out all day and night. Never deprive your Yorkie Puppy of fresh, clean water. Water is the most important nutrient of all.
Treats
Treats should never account for more than 10% of your Yorkie Puppies caloric intake. Your puppy’s food is his sole source for the nutrition he needs, so do not over do it with the treats. Hard chew treats keep your Yorkie Puppy entertained and may improve dental health by exercising the gums and scraping the teeth. It also satisfies your Yorkie Puppies need to chew.
DO NOT GIVE YOUR YORKIE PUPPY RAWHIDES OR PIG EARS FOR PUPPY TEETHING/TREATS. Pig ears break into small sharp pieces that can easily cause blockage. Rawhides are indigigestible and can cause your puppy to vomit. We recommend Bull Sticks for teething and milk bone dog biscuits for treats.
Keeping your Yorkie Puppies ears clean is very important. Maintaining clean ears will prevent ear disease. Check your Yorkie Puppies ears weekly and clean routinely. To clean the ears, use an ear cleaner. Apply the ear cleaner into your Yorkie Puppies ear canal. Gently massage the base of the ear for 15-20 seconds to soften any dirt. Wipe out the loose dirt using a cotton ball. Repeat until the ears are completely clean.
We recommend using a puppy shampoo when bathing your Yorkie Puppy. But before you bathe, you need to brush.
Brushing
By brushing your Yorkie Puppy before bathing, you remove loose hair and significantly improve the effectiveness of the shampoo in cleaning down to the skin. Brush your Yorkie with a natural bristle brush. Start by gently brushing at the head and work toward the tail. Brush in the direction of the coat’s grain to remove loose hair.
Bathing
Use only Puppy shampoo when bathing. Never use human shampoo as it contains much harsher detergents and can damage your Yorkie Puppies sensitive skin. Thoroughly soak your Yorkie Puppy with warm water and apply the puppy shampoo. Work from the neck to tail, and massage the shampoo into the hair. Use a wet cloth to wash the face, being careful not to get shampoo in the eyes. Rinse completely and make sure to check the groin area, armpits, and between toes.
Drying
KEEP PETS WARM AND AWAY FROM DRAFTS WHILE THE HAIR DRIES. DO NOT LET YOUR PET OUTSIDE UNTIL HAIR IS COMPLETELY DRY. To dry your Yorkie Puppy, you can simply use a towel or blow dry. If you choose to blow dry, make sure it is with warm air and never hot air.
Puppy Cologne
If you choose to, you can spray and rub in puppy cologne as a finishing touch.
Chocolate/Caffeine: Chocolate contains theobromine which is a compound that is a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic. Symptoms from chocolate can include staggering, labored breathing, vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, abdominal pain, seizures, fever, heart rate increased, arrhythmia, coma, death.
Onions/Garlic: Onions and garlic contain the toxic ingredient thiosulphate. Out of the two, onions are more dangerous. Onion toxicity can cause haemolytic anaemia, where your puppy’s red blood cells burst while circulating in their body. Symptoms include Hemolytic Anemia, labored breathing, liver damage, vomiting, diarrhea, discolored urine. Usually symptoms appear a few days after ingesting onions. Garlic also includes this the toxic ingredient thiosulphate but is less toxic and large amounts would have to be eaten to cause illness.
Grapes/Raisins: As few as a handful of raisins or grapes can make your Yorkie Puppy ill. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and lethargy.
Mushrooms: Certain mushrooms can be fatal. Amanita phalloides is the most commonly reported severely toxic species of mushroom in the US. Symptoms include drooling, abdominal pain, liver damage, kidney damage, vomiting, diarrhea, convulsions, coma, death.
Nuts/Macadamia Nuts: Macadamia nuts along with most other kinds of nuts can cause illness. Their high phosphorus content is said to possibly lead to bladder stones. Symptoms include development of tremors of the skeletal muscles, and weakness or paralysis of the hindquarters. Affected dogs are often unable to rise and are distressed, usually panting. Some affected dogs have swollen limbs and show pain when the limbs are manipulated.
Vaccinating your puppy is the basis of good puppy care. Vaccines help reduce the risk of your Yorkie Puppy acquiring diseases like parvovirus, distemper, kennel cough, and rabies. Vaccines are usually given when puppies reach 6-8 weeks of age and are given every 3-4 weeks until the puppy reaches 16-20 weeks of age. Boosters are then needed every one to three years. There are many different vaccine schedules your veterinarian might use. For example you puppy might receive shots at the following ages: 6, 9, 12, and a rabies vaccination at 15-16 weeks of age.
Puppies are usually vaccinated against: Distemper, Adenovirus (hepatitis), Parvovirus, and Parainfluenza. All of these vaccines are usually combined in one vaccine typically referred to as “the distemper shot.” Also depending on where you live, you may also need vaccines against Coronavirus, Lyme disease, Leptospirosis, and Bordetella. Rabies vaccination is needed as well and is required by law. Rabies vaccine is usually given at sixteen weeks of age, and then boostered a year later, and then boostered one to three years later depending on the local laws and regulations. Rabies vaccine is the only vaccine that you must absolutely get for your Yorkie Puppy. Only a licensed veterinarian can administer a rabies vaccine. However, we recommend vaccinating with distemper shots as well as rabies.
CONSULT YOUR LOCAL VETERINARIAN FOR VACCINATION SCHEDULE
There are many methods of dog training and many objectives, from basic obedience training to specialized areas including law enforcement, military, search and rescue, hunting, working with livestock, assistance to people with disabilities, entertainment, dog sports and protecting people or property.
As pack animals, wild dogs have natural instincts that favor cooperation with their fellow dogs. Many domestic dogs, either through instinct or breeding, can correctly interpret and respond to signals given by a human handler.
Most dogs live with people who want them to behave in ways that make them pleasant to be around, keep them safe, and provides for the safety of other humans and pets. Dogs do not figure out basic obedience on their own. The fundamental rule that must be remembered is that one should never apply human standards of society onto the dog with the assumption that the dog will understand. Never assume a dog is trying to insult, injure or deceive you on a personal level. Understand that it is acting as a dog naturally, innocently does, and should be met with patience and thoughtfulness, rather than forcefulness or retaliation. Many trainers treat their dogs with cruelty and irrational punishment, leading to measurably increased stress, illness, and tendency towards violence.
The hardest part of training is communicating with the dog in a humane way that the dog understands. However, the underlying principle of all communication is simple: reward desired behavior while ignoring or correcting undesired behavior. “Corrections” should never include harmful physical force or violence.
Basic pet obedience training usually consists of six behaviors:
• Sit
• Down
• Stay
• Recall (“come”, “here” or “in”)
• Close (or loose-leash walking)
• Heel
Reward and punishment
1. Positive reinforcement adds something to the situation to increase the chance of the behaviour being exhibited again.
2. Negative reinforcement removes something from the situation to increase the chance of the behaviour being exhibited again.
When training your dog, use positive training methods. This requires positively reinforcing good behavior rather than punishing to decrease bad behavior.
IMPORTANT: Dogs should not be punished by being placed within a cage, crate or carrier, especially one similar to where they eat or sleep. While this may confine the dog from further disruptive behaviour, and also may seem similar to “sending a child to their room” as a form of punishment, the dog’s mind will unfortunately begin to associate the cage with punishment, and will experience anxiety if put into the container, as a result of the negative feelings associated with it. Punishment involving confinement is an unusual and confusing type of situation for a dog, and should not be used for proper punishment
Rewards
Positive reinforcers can be anything that your dog finds rewarding – special food treats, the chance to play with a tug toy, social interaction with other dogs, or the owner’s attention.
Punishment
Punishments should only be administered as appropriate for the dog’s personality, age, experience and physical and emotional condition. Some dogs may show signs of fear or anxiety with harsh verbal corrections. Other dogs may ignore a verbal reprimand. Some dogs develop an aversion or fear of water, when water is sprayed at them as an aversive.
Keep in mind that each dog is distinctly different. Training methods should be administered only as appropriate. As long as you remain consistent and persistent in their training, it will be well worth your effort and will be highly rewarding. Your dog will never give up on you so never give up on your dog!
Puppy proofing your home is not only a smart thing to do it can also save your Yorkie puppy’s life. Puppies will chew on anything and everything – including electrical wires, chicken bones, socks, and underwear. Puppy proofing is easy to do, follow the steps below and your house will be puppy proofed in no time.
- WHEN UNSUPERVISED, YOUR YORKIE PUPPY SHOULD BE CRATED.
See Article on Home Page regrading Yorkie Crates.
- Check for and secure electrical wires so that they are not within reach of your labrador retreiver puppy.
- Put safety latches on cabinets that have poisonous items — often under the kitchen and bathroom sinks. Ask for these latches at your hardware store.
- If your Yorkie puppy will have access to a garage, be sure there is no anti-freeze within reach. It has an attractive smell and taste to dogs and cats.
- Walk around your home and look for things that are potentially dangerous for your Yorkie puppy.
- Pick up trash containers that might contain anything harmful to your Yorkie puppy.
- Remove any poisoinous household plants. See List of Poisoinous Plants on Home Page.
- If you have a fenced yard, terrific! Walk around your fencing and look for any place that your Yorkie puppy might be able to squeeze through. See if anything else in the yard needs puppy proofing.
- Plan your potty-training arrangements. Where do you want the puppy to do its stuff? How will you clean it up?
Below is a list of supplies you will need before bringing home your Yorkie Puppy. Some supplies are optional and some are a necessity. We strongly recommend being prepared beforehand to assure an easy transition for you and your Yorkie Puppy.
Things You Will Need Before Bringing Your Yorkie Puppy Home
| Needed Supplies | Optional supplies |
| Stainless Steel Water Bowl
Stainless Steel Food Bowl Leash and Collar Premium Brand Dog Food (Holistic) Dog Crate
|
Treats
Dog Bedding Dog Toys and Chews (Bull Sticks) Dog Brush Puppy Shampoo Dog Clippers
|
1. Please arrive at the airport before your Yorkie puppy is scheduled to arrive, and go to the live cargo pick-up area for the traveling airline. This spot is different in many airports and it is good practice to call the regional airport ahead of time to find out this location.
2. Bring with you the shipping information and two forms of identification.
3. You may also want to bring a bottle of water, a blanket or towel, and something super tasty like boiled chicken pieces, cheese, or other meat pieces. Your Yorkie puppy may be very hungry and thirsty or not hungry or thirsty at all. Do not be alarmed if either happens. Once your Yorkie puppy gets home and adjusted into its own new bed (you may want to continue to use the crate) with new toys and the same food and familiar blanket, your Yorkie puppy should start eating and playing normally. If the puppy is not eating much, mix rice or chicken and add it to the dry food your Yorkie puppy came with. Do not over-feed your Yorkie puppy human foods which may lead to digestive discomfort.
4. The first thing you do when you take the puppy out is to take it to the closest grassy spot ASAP. THEN give your Yorkie much love and tender care. Contact LittleLindas to let us know that your puppy has arrived safely.
Checklist:
- Bring paper towels, a blanket or towel
- Bring newspaper
- Trash bag
- Bring a leash and collar
- Bottled water and a bowl
- Boiled chicken pieces, cheese, or other meat pieces
- Wetwipes for self cleanup

Bringing your Yorkie Puppy puppy home is one of the most exciting moments. There is a new bundle of furry joy that enters your family and settles in for a long and nurturing bond between dog and human. However, this joy can quickly disperse as the role of housebreaking comes along and you start to become frustrated.
First, the new Yorkie Puppy owner must realize that not all dogs are the same. One puppy may be easily trained by the time it is 12 weeks old, while another puppy could be 5 months old before being fully housebroken. Each puppy is different and must be trained according to what fits for that particular puppy.
What is housebreaking?
Housebreaking is the act of getting your puppy to soil where you want. Usually this is outside of the home but some owners of smaller breed dogs choose to litter train their puppies instead. For Yorkie Puppies, litter training is not an option so we must assume that the Yorkie Puppy will be trained to pee and poop outside of the home.
Importance of Schedules
Schedules are one of the most important aspects of housebreaking your puppy. The first thing any new or expecting family should do is create a bathroom schedule for their new puppy.
Puppies around 8-16 weeks old will usually need to go to the bathroom every 3 hours. Therefore, you should schedule bathroom breaks every couple of hours, even if your puppy does not show signs of having to go to the bathroom. If you keep to a 3-hour schedule, your puppy will catch on quickly and start to begin to hold from going to the bathroom indoors until that scheduled potty break. As your puppy gets older, this 3-hour schedule can be extended an hour at a time, until your puppy can finally wait up to 8 hours or more. Please note that this is a gradual process and will take several weeks to months before being able to wait that long as a puppy’s bladder is underdeveloped when young and cannot physically wait that long without having the urge.
Training to go Potty
So now that you know what housebreaking is and the importance of scheduling, how do you get your puppy to go outside? It is a simple process of awarding your puppy for good behavior.
Most Yorkie Puppy owners follow a very simple routine when they take their puppy outside: take your puppy out on a leash directly to the spot you want your puppy to eliminate, use a command to tell your puppy to do its business such as Go Potty, do not play with your puppy while outside for bathroom time, as your puppy goes potty repeat the command over (this helps train your puppy to go on command), treat and praise when your puppy goes potty, do not return your puppy to the house until 10 minutes have passed even if your puppy has already eliminated (it may go potty again), and praise your puppy when it comes back into the house.
Beyond the 3-hour schedule, your puppy will need to go to the bathroom:
• When they wake up in the morning or after a nap
• Before they go to sleep
• After they play
• Before and after they go on a car ride
• When they get overly excited
Using a Crate
We strongly urge crate training for housebreaking puppies. By using a crate, you provide your puppy with its own den and capitalize on its innate tendency to keep this area clean. A puppy kept in its crate for a reasonable period of time – no more than three to four hours at a time during the day – will refrain from soiling and will learn to hold itself until you let it out. Consistently doing this will help your puppy establish a regular schedule for elimination. Crates also prevent young puppies from getting into mischief when you cannot watch them and confines their chewing to objects you have provided. Like children, puppies need lots of rest but they also require pleasant physical contact and socialization. Use common sense about how much time your puppy should spend in its crate.
Introducing the Crate
It is important to introduce your puppy to the crate gradually. It may be helpful to use treats to provide a positive association with entering the crate. As your puppy becomes comfortable with the crate, you can increase the time that it spends there, realizing that it is important not to overuse it. Your puppy should not live in its crate — he or she should live with you. However, use the crate for the periods of time when it cannot be watched, when it is resting or eating and while it is being housebroken. This time staying in the crate will teach your puppy to hold itself. Used this way, a crate is an important aid in your puppy’s adjustment to its new life.
Housebreaking is not always an easy task but it doesn’t have to result in frustration and hair loss. With Yorkie Puppies, owners need to remain consistent and persistent in their training. Most owners become frustrated because they try something for a week or two and when it doesn’t work, they either give up or try something new. Unfortunately, this ends up confusing the Yorkie Puppy and your puppy will be deemed un-trainable. When training fails, it is usually that the owner does not remain consistent with the training or gives up all together. This leads to an 80-pound dog that rules the roost and a very important bond between owner and Yorkie Puppy that is lost.
Remember that each Yorkie Puppy is distinctly different. However, as long as you remain consistent and persistent in their training, it will be well worth your effort and will be highly rewarding. Your Yorkie Puppy would never give up on you so never give up on your Yorkie Puppy!

A dog crate is a metal, wire, plastic, or fabric enclosure with a door in which a dog may be kept for security or transportation. For best results in using crates, crate training is recommended.
• There are many types of crates, and variations within the types:
• FOR YOUR HOME, WE RECOMMEND PURCHASING A WIRE CRATE (pictured on right). Wire crates come in all different sizes. We recommend a small crate that is foldable and has a divider. Make sure to put a towel, pad, or soft blanket in the crate so that your Yorkie puppy can lie down comfortably. We also recommend covering the back part of the crate at least halfway with a sheet.
• Solid plastic crates are usually more suitable than other types for secure travel, such as in an airplane. They might also be safer in a car accident than other types. Disadvantages are that they take up a lot of space and do not fold for storage.
• Aluminum crates can be either fixed or folding. A few of their advantages are: light weight, very strong when constructed with appropriate bracing, will not rust, excellent airflow & vision for the dog, appealing looks compared to wire crates. Aluminum crates are suitable for use at veterinary hospitals, car travel, as a permanent “den” for your dog inside the home and in breeding kennel environments.
• Soft crates can always be easily folded for storage or transport and are lightweight. They provide your dog with a stronger sense of security but still allow visibility and airflow. They cannot be used with dogs who are likely to dig or chew at the crate, and they are unsuitable for transporting dogs in any type of vehicle. Dog tents are a new alternative to soft crates. They offer many of the same advantages (and disadvantages) of soft crates but fold down to an even smaller size and are ultra lightweight so that they can be stuffed into tent bags and taken virtually anywhere. They make ideal enclosures for people who need to pack their soft crates into cramped vehicles or suitcases or for people who hike, camp or are involved in dog sports. Like soft crates, they are not suitable for puppies, dogs who are not housebroken, or for vehicle travel.
The ideal Yorkshire terrier character or “personality” is described with a “carriage very upright” and “conveying an important air.” Though small, the Yorkshire terrier is active, loves attention, very overprotective and should not show the soft temperament seen in lap dogs. The Yorkshire terrier breed is bold and active. They are brave for such a small breed. They are, however, also quite loyal and affectionate. Yorkshire terrier puppies are especially loving and cuddly with their owners.
YORKSHIRE TERRIER (YORKIE)

The Yorkshire terrier is a small dog breed of terrier type, developed in the 19th century in the historical area of Yorkshire, England to catch rats in clothing mills. The defining features of the breed are its small size, less than 3.2 kilograms (7.1 lb), and its silky blue and tan coat. The breed is nicknamed Yorkie and is placed in the Toy Terrier section of the Terrier Group by the Fédération Cynologique Internationale and in the Toy Group or Companion Group by other kennel clubs, although all agree that the breed is a terrier. A winning show dog and a popular companion dog, the Yorkshire terrier has also been part of the development of other breeds, such as the Australian Silky Terrier.
History
The Yorkshire terrier originated in Yorkshire (and the adjoining Lancashire), a rugged region in northern England. In the mid-19th century, workers from Scotland came to Yorkshire in search of work and brought with them several different varieties of small terriers. Breeding of the Yorkshire terrier was “principally accomplished by the people–mostly operatives in cotton and woolen mills–in the counties of Yorkshire and Lancashire.” Details are scarce. Mrs. A. Foster is quoted as saying in 1886, “If we consider that the mill operatives who originated the breed…were nearly all ignorant men, unaccustomed to imparting information for public use, we may see some reason why reliable facts have not been easily attained.”
What is known is that the breed sprang from three different dogs, a male named Old Crab and a female named Kitty, and another female whose name is not known. The Paisley Terrier, a smaller version of the Skye Terrier that was bred for a beautiful long silky coat, also figured into the early dogs. Some authorities believed that the Maltese was used as well. “They were all originally bred from Scotch terriers (note: meaning dogs from Scotland, not today’s Scottish Terrier) and shown as such…the name Yorkshire terrier was given to them on account of their being improved so much in Yorkshire.” Yorkshire terriers were shown in a dog show category (class) at the time called “Rough and Broken-coated, Broken-haired Scotch and Yorkshire terriers”. Hugh Dalziel, writing in 1878, says that “the classification of these dogs at shows and in the Kennel Club Stud Book is confusing and absurd” in lumping together these different types.
In the early days of the breed, “almost anything in the shape of a Terrier having a long coat with blue on the body and fawn or silver coloured head and legs, with tail docked and ears trimmed, was received and admired as a Yorkshire terrier”. But in the late 1860s, a popular Paisley type Yorkshire terrier showdog named Huddersfield Ben, owned by a woman living in Yorkshire, Mary Ann Foster, was seen at dog shows throughout Great Britain, and defined the breed type for the Yorkshire terrier.
For adult Yorkshire terriers, the importance is placed on its coat colour, its quality, and its texture. The hair must be glossy, fine, straight, and silky. Traditionally the coat is grown-out long and is parted down the middle of the back, but “must never impede movement.”
Yorkies have two types of coats; a silky or a soft. The silky coats are the coats of the show dogs, while the soft coats are short and do not need to be brushed very often.
From the back of the neck to the base of the tail, the coat should be a dark gray to a steel-blue, and the hair on the tail should be a darker blue. On the head, high chest, and legs, the hair should be a bright, rich tan, darker at the roots than in the middle, that shades into a lighter tan at the tips. Also, in adult dogs, there should be no dark hairs intermingled with any of the tan coloured fur.
Adult Yorkshire terriers that have other coat colours than the above, or that have woolly or extra fine coats, are still considered to be Yorkshire terriers, and will be just as good of a companion as a dog with the correct coat. The only difference is that atypical Yorkshire terriers should not be bred. In addition, care may be more difficult for “woolly” or “cottony” textured coats, or coats that are overly fine. One of the reasons given for not breeding “off-coloured” Yorkies is that the colour could be a potential indicator of a genetic defect that may affect the dog’s health, a careful health screening can clarify if any health risks exist or not.
Puppy coats
A newborn Yorkie puppy is born black with tan points on the muzzle, above the eyes, around the legs and feet and toes, the inside of the ears, and the underside of the tail. Occasionally Yorkies are born with a white “star” on the chest or on one or more toes. These markings fade with age, and are usually gone within a few months. A white “star” on the chest is generally an indication that the puppy will be a good coat grower in quantity, but not necessarily quality.
It may take up to three years or more for the coat to reach its final colour. P. H. Coombs, writing in 1891, complained about show wins awarded to puppies, when the dog’s coat does not fully come in until three or four years old, “and the honour of winning such a prize (for a puppy) can therefore be of but little practical benefit to the owner” since the adult dog’s colour cannot be exactly predicted.
Hypoallergenic coats
The typical fine, straight, and silky Yorkshire terrier coat has also been listed by many popular dog information websites as being hypoallergenic. In comparison with many other breeds, Yorkies do not shed to the same degree, only losing small amounts when bathed or brushed. All dogs shed, and it is the dog’s dander and saliva that trigger most allergic reactions. Allergists do recognise that at times a particular allergy patient will be able to tolerate a particular dog, but they agree that “the luck of the few with their pets cannot be stretched to fit all allergic people and entire breeds of dogs.” The Yorkshire terrier coat is said to fall out only when brushed or broken, or just said to not shed. Although neither of those statements agree with what biologists, veterinarians, and allergists know about dog fur, allergists “think there really are differences in protein production between dogs that may help one patient and not another”, meaning that some allergic people may not have allergic reactions to a specific dog, like the Yorkie.
Coat care
If the coat is the correct silky texture, maintenance for it is relatively easy, requiring a daily brushing and a bath every month. Owners may trim the fur short for easier care. For shows, the coat is left long, and may be trimmed to floor length to give ease of movement and a neater appearance. Hair on the feet and the tips of ears can also be trimmed.
The traditional long coat is extremely high maintenance. To prevent breakage, the coat may be wrapped in rice paper, tissue paper, or plastic, after a light oiling with a coat oil. The oil has to be washed out once a month and the wraps must be fixed periodically during the week to prevent them from sliding down and breaking the hair. Elaborate care of the beautiful coat dates from the earliest days of the breed. In 1878, John Walsh described similar preparations: the coat is “well greased” with coconut oil, the dog is bathed weekly, and the dog’s feet are “carefully kept in stockings.”
Other colours
The Yorkshire terrier is a tan dog with a blue saddle. Parti colours exist, although they are not correct for the breed standard. The parti colour coat is white with black/blue and tan. It’s very rare to get a a parti colour Yorkie. The AKC registration form for Yorkshire terriers allows for four choices: blue and tan, blue and gold, black and tan, black and gold.
Temperament
The ideal Yorkshire terrier character or “personality” is described with a “carriage very upright” and “conveying an important air.” Though small, the Yorkshire terrier is active, loves attention, very overprotective and should not show the soft temperament seen in lap dogs. The Yorkshire terrier breed is bold and active. They are brave for such a small breed. They are, however, also quite loyal and affectionate. Yorkshire terrier puppies are especially loving and cuddly with their owners.